SLIDE BAR FOR FENDER CHAMPION LAP STEEL FULL

I use a Dunlop Jerry Byrd model steel, and an old (1940's) brass steel with a thick bakelite coating. I, too, am a 'leftover' (a lefty who plays right), largely because I started stringed instuments on banjo, and I couldn't afford a left handed one. Originally I'm lefty-plays-righty so my 'dextrous' hand is actually the 'sinister' one yet I feel greater control with a flat side on the bar. Don't have this control issue with old small, vintage, lead-center 'bullet bars' I've picked up over the years, but don't get 'the tone' outa those. I'm lefty-plays-righty so my 'dextrous' hand is actually the 'sinister' one yet I feel greater control with a flat side on the bar. Not a big flat area, just enough to get a 'better' grip on the bar. Interestingly, just before I got it, I'd gone into the barn and ground a flat side on my bullet bar.

I've made the choice to 'suffer' the slant issues for the tone of the heavy Robt R bar. I should add that slants are easier (and harmonics, too) on a long scale instrument - more forgiving.ДЄgree, Slipry1. Watch these guys, and Jerry Byrd, on YouTube to see. If you watch the great ones, Alan Akaka & Bobby Ingano, e.g., their left hand doesn't move when they do the slant - they just push the bullet bar into position with the thumb - it takes a while, but you end up with a lot better pitch control. I fund that slants are not as accurate with a Stevens type steel, at least for me. The Robt R model is a hefty Stevens-style bar, ez-pz on my old Fender Dlx 8.

For 'bottleneck' slide I've always found the heaviest slides produce the best tone & sustain. Saw/tried a Shubb 'Robert Randolph model' bar NAMM, haven't used anything else since. My modest lap-steel endeavors were always with a Dunlop 'bullet' bar til last winter. Appreciate the help.Д®veryone has their own way. I'm still trying to get the hang of the left hand. ItвЂ™s the lightness of the left hand thatвЂ™s the important thing. IвЂ™ve used a flat type bar as well, and that is also fine. When a вЂregularвЂ™ steel player plays my non nut extended guitar there are all sorts of knocks and rattles, which I donвЂ™t seem to get. Once you get used to holding them they work fine вЂ“ although you have to play with a light touch on the left hand. I mostly use a Hawaiian style bullet type slide. ItвЂ™s not as loud, but itвЂ™s perfectly possible to do it. So IвЂ™ll use the steel on the вЂnormalвЂ™ guitar. ItвЂ™s a hassle to carry three things on public transport (or to get into a taxi), and the rooms I play in are often very small, and IвЂ™m conscious of taking up too much room with instruments. As I already take out a mandolin and a guitar, IвЂ™m not keen on taking a second guitar just for steel. However, I play all sorts of things during a night, and might only want to play steel on a couple of songs. IвЂ™ve tried a nut extender, and found that you get a much better and louder sound вЂ“ most likely because you can push into the strings a bit harder.

Hey Darin вЂ“ this is pretty much my approach too. 'A master banjo player isn't the person who can pick the most notes.It's the person who can touch the most hearts.' Patrick Costello Meanwhile, I'll look for that old thread. Hang in there a bit, and some folks with real knowledge will chime in here. I don't know if the normally low action of a standard guitar will be conducive to steel playing. I spend too much time with slack key, banjo, and dulcimer to put in the time on steel. But I don't have enough experience to claim any knowledge. I have a bullet and a flat bar, the flat seems easier for me to control and hang onto. I believe the general concensus was that the bullet bars are best. There was a thread about tone bars some time ago under Hawaiian Steel Guitar.

SLIDE BAR FOR FENDER CHAMPION LAP STEEL FULL

Anyone got suggestions for which slide/tone bar works the best? Full disclosure, I'd be using it on a regular guitar without any nut extender attempting to mimic a Hawaiian lap steel.

Slide bar for fender champion lap steel